The sea gypsy fishing families of the Sundarbans.The largest delta in the world - Sundarbans.Elsie Gabriel

The sea gypsy fishing families of the Sundarbans.

The largest delta in the world-Sundarbans.

Elsie Gabriel

You arrive at the banks of a slushy looking River junction which is the confluence of Bhramaputra and Ganga, which is about 3 hours away from main city of Kolkatta in India. You can travel from Kolkata to Gosaba which takes around three hours, and then take a boat from Godkhali Port to Sajnekhali which gain takes about two hours.It is a very rough village tour so be prepared for a rough jungle tour.

 The Malta divides Sundarban Reserved Forest into Sundarban Tiger Reserve on the east and Reserved Forest of South 24 Parganas Forest Division on the west. A rustic loud motor engine ferry boat takes you down the muddy river passing luscious green thickets of mangrove plantations which expand on both sides of the river. The region is covered solely by sediments carried and deposited by the rivers Ganges , Matla and Bidyadhari.

The boat cruise can cost you anything between 1500/- to 2000/- Rs and it is very important to hire a guide to show you the real good spots of tourism. The boatmen are very informative and you should always chat them up for some more information about the inside stories about the mangrove sites.Where ever you look you see Mangrove foliage and I guess the name may have been derived from the Sundari trees which is the actual the mangrove species Heritiera fomes. Twenty-six of the fifty broad mangrove types found in the world grow well in the Sundarbans. The commonly identifiable vegetation that grow in the dense mangrove forests at the Sundarbans are salt water mixed forest, mangrove scrub, brackish water mixed forest, littoral forest, wet forest and wet alluvial grass forests. So, what you do ,do not get into the dangerous waters or banks. Stay on your boat for the entire cruise unless you are required to visit the watch tower and museum.

The Sundarbans are the largest mangrove belt in the world, stretching about 50 miles into the Bangladeshi and Indian hinterland from the coast. The Sundarbans has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site now and the forests aren't just mangrove swamps though, they include some of the last remaining stands of the mighty jungles which once covered the Gangetic plain.

I was lucky to spend more time among the gypsy fishing villagers rather than the jungle zones. Singing songs with the schools kids and clapping to their music was the most simplest sort of bliss one could ever experience away from the hustle and bustle of the city life. Visiting a small classroom hutment area and creeks where the fishing boats rest are much better insightful spots you can choose after your river cruise is over. Life in a village doesn’t get simpler than this.No amount of money can buy this sort of enlightenment,believe me....

Sundarban is the only mangrove forest in the world which is the home of Tiger. Sundarban Tiger Reserve has the highest tiger population in the world. But don’t be hopeful of seeing any tigers though. They’re very shy and usually remain well hidden in the reserve. Sundarban's highly productive ecosystem acts as a natural fish nursery. Sundarban Mangroves save the Bengal state from a lot of flood lashes and actually protect the inter-land.

• Hiron Point a beautiful spot, great for spotting tigers and other wildlife

• Tin Kona Island another popular spot for wildlife spotting.

• Katka a base for safaris, and good spot to see tigers and for bird-watching.

• Dublar Char Island it's possible to fish here.

• Sudhanyakhali Watch Tower - Most of the tigers are sighted from this tower. Some other wildlife like axis deers and crocodiles may also be seen from this watch tower.
  

• Sajnekhali Watch Tower - Another watch tower that also houses a museum, a Bonobibi Temple and a crocodile park within its premises.

• Sajnekhali Pakiralaya

• Dobanki Watch Tower

• Bhagbatpur crocodile project

• Buridabri

• Netidhopani - It has a temple that’s 400 years old

• Kanak - Ideal for viewing the Olive Ridley Turtles

Royal Bengal Tigers are the main draw, but you can also spot Saltwater Crocodiles, various primates, leopards, King Cobras and Indian Cobras.

Sundarbans is home to many different species of birds, mammals, insects, reptiles and fishes. The Gangetic River Dolphin is common in the rivers.

I was thrilled to see chital deer and rhesus monkey, hermit crabs at the river banks. There is an incredible variety of reptiles also found in Sundarbans, which includes king cobra, rock python and water monitor. Sunderbans is also a breeding ground of innumerable varieties of birds like egret, cormorant, fishing eagle, seagull, kingfisher, golden plover, pintail and whistling teal The Sundarbans - on which is the Sundarban National Park has also been nominated for the 'New 7 Wonders of Nature' - chosen by people through a global poll. It is a protected area for its biodiversity conservation owing to its rich ecology and a two day trip should let you soak in the sheer ecology.It is extremely hot in the months of March, April and May ,so be warned,choose any day between October to February and you shall have yourself a good ecologically filled mangrove delta trip of a lifetime!

The Indian Ferriwalli! The Antique collector. Elsie Gabriel

The Indian Ferriwalli! The Antique collector. Elsie Gabriel

This is a story about an eco friendly saree clad lady who gives retailing a good name and promotes preservation of the old dying art of traditional textiles and ancient art works by selling door to door, home to home!

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Saroj Parmar has sad green blue eyes, beautiful in her rustic ways, all of 52 but  looks about 35. You can see the lines on her forehead just above those pretty eyes, born of the pain and more from the sunrays which have coloured her tan graciously over the last 35 years that she has been knocking on doors to sell her wares. She is the eco friendly retail ferriwalla or rather ferriwalli, but with a difference. She not only recycles old sarees, ancient coins, picture postcards of the British era pre independence,carved silver bangles and armlets  and ancient Parsi borders but carries the ‘market’ on her head saving the ‘retail’ marketing strategy .

Born in Surrendranagar Gujarat in a tribal area,Saroj knows a buyer when she sees one. Her looks are meek but here mind is sharp from experience. She has observed the nova rich women who will not invest in antique Jamewar shawls and rather opt for the  nylon shimmers that modern malls offer ,Saroj knows which piece in her bundle of clothes will fit whose pocket, she also knows how to show and how much to hold back, she is a smart retailer, she has learned the art and psychology of selling from sheer practice. Saroj has visited almost every state in India, every remote corner to investigate and drill out the antiques which many people throw  away or give away for money. She has also  visited villages in the jungles and remote deserts, and cooked with women on fires all over the country.  Saroj is a free bird, she markets in her own time, own space ,own pace and own style. Saroj’s example encourages us all to dust off our rigid dreams  at some given time or once in a way and rediscover the joy, the exuberance, and the hidden free spirit that so many of us bury when we become adults.

Why she was awarded by Young Environemntalists Programme trust the Womens Achievers awrd is simply because she leaves no carbon footprint while conducting her retail marketing. Saroj carries her shop on her head and hands, she has no menu and does business by word of mouth. Saroj’s story is unique. Saroj’s wares have no expiry date, simply because she collects and sells antiques! Iam so glad I found her. No plastic bags to sell her goods nor advertising just references and word of mouth. 

Spending the day with her, educated me enough to rewind, refresh and reuse all my old beautiful clothes in the cupboard and recycle and wear them again, as I pleased. And never mind being called the repetitive queen, as long as our clothes are clean and washed well before reuse. This Nomad had come a long way. when I offered to drop her by car she said she had a taxi waiting all day for her retailing business, smart gypsy woman. Saroj has the same taxi guy for the last 15 years and hires him whenever she is in Mumbai, Imagine….so much for the H.R. tactics I need badly…  

While I said bye to her, I recalled how India did have salt traders,Ayurvedic healers, snake chamrmers,jugglers, Grindstone makers or basket makers. I remember the ‘walnut’ kashmiri vendor who would visit every winter just before Christmas with his basket full of walnuts on a turban so intact……not to forget the knife sharpening guy who would chisel and sharpen knives on his cycle gadget right in front of the door..remember…? huh…..

It’s a dyeing art of selling retail, this ferriwalli cried when she took to the stage at Meluha the Fern ecotel,Powai Mumbai during our award ceremony and scanned the crowds with teary eyes and called out to her husband in the audience for some confidence as she was speechless and all she said was…my husband was a street vendor and he taught me the art of selling retail and I dedicate the award to him …she was the only one to dedicate the award to a man on womans day!

Behind every successful woman ,there is also a man, sometimes…..ever thought of that!!